I would like to share my hack of IKEA IVAR shelving system into a built-in bookcase. It all started with the wish to have a bookcase that could store all the books we still had in the moving boxes.
I could not find a bookcase that would fit the space we wanted to use. Or did not like the looks or did not want to pay that kind of money, so I decided to make one myself. This way the built-in bookcase could make the most use of the space, from floor to ceiling and from wall to wall (or wall to door in my case). To not start from scratch completely, I decided to use the IKEA IVAR shelving system, this way I had some sort of a base to start from.
IKEA items used:
IVAR side units (4x)
IVAR shelves (24x)
Other materials used:
3mm thick (max) plate to close the sides (I used MDF)
Plywood to close the outside and cover the top (I used 3,6mm)
Plywood for the sliding doors (I used 18mm)
Some wood for ornamental framing
Some more wood
System for sliding doors (I used Hettich bottom running system)
Primer and paint
Handles for sliding doors
Tools:
Drill and screws
Hammer and nails
Saw (miter saw or other, jig saw)
Glue
Simple hand tacker
Router: if you want to shorten the shelves and do some additions to the ornamental framing. And depending on the sliding door system you choose, you might need it.
Painting supplies
Built-in bookcase: Building the frame
I wanted a lot of shelving space for our books but also wanted some covered storage underneath. Since the space in the room is limited, I wanted to use sliding doors for this part. I searched for a system that I liked and in the end choose a Hettich bottom running system (also used in some IKEA furniture, by the way).
Unfortunately, in my old house, the floor was not level. So as a preparation, I placed a frame on the floor with the same depth as the IVAR side units (30cm) and levelled it. Also, the IVAR side units were not available in a length that would reach up to the ceiling, so I bought the longest ones available, and then extended them.
I thought it would be easy to extend them since I would not need any dowel holes for shelving in this top part, and used some wood I had lying around. But this turned out to be a bit harder than I thought. I would advise anyone who wants to extend the side units, to buy one (or more) extra pieces and cut and connect those.
Built-in bookcase: Customizing shelves
When all 4 units were extended, I placed the outer two and attached them to the bottom (levelling) frame and the wall. At this point, I measured the exact dimension in between these two to determine the length of the shelves.
I knew I had to also customize the shelf length to make it fit exactly onto the wall I wanted. (I could have used two standard length sections and make only one fit, but I liked it better if all sections were the same width for several reasons; it is easier for the sliding doors to have equal sections, I can now interchange shelves between all sections and I like the looks better.) At this point, I made 9 shelves to the right length so I could assemble the IVAR and have a stable basis with all side units in place.
To shorten the shelves, you can carefully remove the plastic strip on one side of the shelf. Then, cut the shelf to your desired length, make a new slot in the side using a router, and put the strip back in again. I found this instruction on YouTube (credits to Sean O’Brien) :
I’m trying to figure out if a headboard can be attached to an Espevar Mattress Base , and how to accomplish that. I’m looking at a standard metal headboard (because I just prefer the look of curved metal to what IKEA offers) and am not interested in a slat base with just a mattress on top, and a wall mounted headboard is not an option due to renting. Thanks for any help! ~ Amy *** Hi Amy I’ve not seen the ESPEVÄR in person but I believe it is possible to attach a headboard to it. From the website, the ESPEVÄR looks like a regular wooden slatted mattress base under a bed base slipover. As to how to attach it, that will depend on the fittings on the metal headboard. So you will just need to get the right hardware to secure the metal headboard to the wooden frame. And make some small openings on the slipcover to let the fixtures to go through. Jules Photo: IKEA.com Try these free-standing headboards for size A lime green and white headboard that takes centerstage in the r...
It’s been a while since I did a home tour. If you’ve missed the previous reveals, you can catch up with my Master Bathroom remodel and Guest Bathroom reveal . Today, let’s focus on my kitchen renovation. Hands down, this is the most used room in my home. I spend crazy amounts of time in here, even when I’m not cooking. Just off to the side of the kitchen I converted an awkward space into a reading nook . In the mornings, I sit and read or pray and meditate, before it gets too warm. And on the other side, there’s a work-in-progress plant wall / indoor garden which also takes up a lot of my time. So, all in all, lots of traffic in here, and that’s not even counting cooking and eating time. The kitchen is definitely my favourite room, because the transformation is huge and I love how it turned out. Kitchen renovation: The before House 17 when I first got it, actually had 2 kitchens, which is a very common “Asian” home concept. First, the “dry kitchen”, which is where you make simp...
Bet you never knew your sofa armrests were prime storage space. Ok, so the guys at IKEA are the masters of hidden / secret storage everywhere. In fact, one of the things I most loved about the ESKILSTUNA sofa series was the undercover storage on the chaise lounge, but… what? More than 80 liters of storage space wasted on the armrests? NO WAY! I really don’t understand how they didn’t take that opportunity with several different armrest modules. Mobile chargers, cup / can holders, foldable tables, refrigerators… there’s SO MUCH space in there. I can’t stop thinking on different options! For myself, I went for two designs. First, a “full space” design on the (right) side of the chaise lounge. (The cavity fits two foldable chairs). Second, on the left armrest — a flip open section for “mobile charger / remote control storage / etc.”. Below that, a full-depth pull-out drawer, tall enough to store A4 sized magazines. This is the final result: Full space design, rig...
Comments
Post a Comment