Skip to main content

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a ceiling LED spotlight

The JANSJÖ is a nice design, energy efficient and cheap lamp, which I wanted to hack into a LED spotlight. It wasn’t very hard, if you know what you’re doing. It took about an hour’s work and about €1,50 for additional components. The bonus point is the mains unit fits nicely into the foot. But before you embark on this hack, 3 things! Safety, safety, safety. Mains voltage is deadly. Bad connections cause fire.

IKEA items used:

Materials:

Tools:

  • Hot melt glue gun
  • Common tools like Saw, Screwdriver, Drill

How to hack the JANSJÖ LED table lamp to an LED spotlight

Part 1 : Dismantle

Dismantle the mains connection unit: take the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) out of its housing.

Keep some wire length on the low voltage side. (black wires in my case).

Mains unit housing and the switch are now obsolete

Dismantle the LED light armature.

Remove the ballast weight from the foot.

Part 2: Prepare

Prepare three pieces of wood or likewise isolating material:

– one piece is not too thick for the middle to allow you to screw the flexible arm onto it. Drill holes in this piece upfront. Measure the distance of the two screws of the flexible arm. Add an additional hole for the supply leads to the lamp.

– Two pieces with the thickness of the inside of the foot. Do not drill upfront.

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a LED spotlight

Part 3: Hack!

Solder the lamp low voltage wires to the PCB.

Screw the mains wires of the PCB to the luster terminal.

Optionally connect a 20 mm, 230V VDR (Varistor, See picture) parallel to the mains. This will elongate the life-time of the electronics, especially in countries with overhead mains supply wires.

VDR (Disc-Varistor)

VDR (Disc-Varistor)

Mount the PCB, the luster terminal and the pieces of wood with hot melt.

Make sure the low voltage wires can NEVER come near to the mains wire. I pre-fixed the wires with a pieces of tape, before end-fixing them with hot melt.

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a LED spotlight

Drill holes from the outside part of the armature’s foot, through the pieces of wood with e.g. a 4,5 mm drill (see photo above, I kept the drill bit in, in order to illustrate this). You might want to measure the distances of the bolts in the “central stuffing box” in the ceiling. In my project, I used the largest distance, in order to screw outside the ceiling unit

Central stuffing box

Central stuffing box (Dutch model)

Disconnect the mains voltage. Verify the mains voltage is disconnected at your ceiling unit.

Wear isolating shoes, try not to work with two hands. Have an assistant present to guard you work.

Mains voltage across the human body is instantaneously deadly.

Now the lamp can be connected to the mains wires of the ceiling unit. Optionally with additional pieces of wire (see the white wire in the picture).

Screw the JANSJÖ LED spotlight to your ceiling.

The bottom plate is not needed for ceiling mounting. This version is however NOT suitable for wet rooms or outside or room with temperature changes. Any condensation water inside the unit would be a hazard for fire or electrocution.

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a LED spotlight

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a LED spotlight

~ by Hans Driessen

 

The post Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a ceiling LED spotlight appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

SKÅDIS: 5 ways to make the IKEA pegboard even better

IKEA introduced its own pegboard system, SKÅDIS, two years ago and I’d say it’s one of the best systems IKEA launched in recent years. I love how super customisable it is, with a growing range of accessories that help keep things organized. It works everywhere, in your wardrobe to bathroom . Probably anywhere you have a flat surface to hang it up. Photo: IKEA.com SKÅDIS pegboard system See it on IKEA.com But no matter how perfect a system, you can trust IKEA hackers to improve on the SKÅDIS. And they’ve settle these 5 issues you may have faced with the handy IKEA pegboard. Read on for their fixes. 5 IKEA SKÅDIS issues and fixes #1 Expensive hooks? You’ll need quite a number of hooks and accessories to fill up the SKÅDIS pegboard, and Kenyer was shocked at how quickly they all added up. So he figured he could make his own hooks to save cost. Photo: Kenyer Over at Instructables , he shows us how to twist copper wires into the SKÅDIS hook shape. It works s...

Enjoy Sweet Dreams With These DIY Headboard Ideas

A headboard is one of the last things you see before you fall asleep and one of the first things you see when you wake up. Demonstrate your unique design style by creating your own. Below are some ideas and tips to get you started. Do you think the formula for sleep is on this London bedroom’s headboard? Image: Clifton Interiors Ltd Chalk headboard Create this look with a can of black chalkboard paint. Almost any type of wall – drywall, plaster, wood, brick or concrete – will work, as long is it is properly prepped. Chalkboard paint is easy to apply, dries fast and can be cleaned with soap and water. But you’re not limited to the color black – chalkboard paint comes in just about every color. If you don’t want to use paint, consider chalkboard contact paper – and yes, you can use chalk on it. An Edmonton hockey-themed room. Image: Cameron Homes Hockey goal headboard For the ultimate hockey fan, nothing beats a hockey goal headboard. Complete the scene with a team blank...

A beautiful design idea for the IVAR cabinet with doors

A wall of IVAR cabinets with doors engraved is astonishingly captivating. Because IVAR is real solid wood (unlike a lot of flat-pack cupboards), it makes a great blank canvas for CNC machining work and engraving. IKEA items used: IKEA IVAR cabinets in 30mm (12″) and 50mm (20″) depths. IVAR cabinet | IKEA.com Other materials and tools: CNC Router How to engrave the IVAR cabinet with doors: Build a wall of IVAR cabinets to your preference. It’s not too difficult to shorten some in order to fill a wall exactly. I shortened the top row to 695mm and reduced the depth of the middle column to 40mm to create a 50/40/30 sequence so that I didn’t block the window but maximised storage capacity. Take a drawing, trace it in Inkscape or Adobe Illustrator into a black-only flat design. You can simplify the path at this point to reduce the time needed to engrave. Chop up the drawing in Inkscape or Adobe Illustrator into door-sized sections. Save as an SVG. Import the ...