Skip to main content

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a ceiling LED spotlight

The JANSJÖ is a nice design, energy efficient and cheap lamp, which I wanted to hack into a LED spotlight. It wasn’t very hard, if you know what you’re doing. It took about an hour’s work and about €1,50 for additional components. The bonus point is the mains unit fits nicely into the foot. But before you embark on this hack, 3 things! Safety, safety, safety. Mains voltage is deadly. Bad connections cause fire.

IKEA items used:

Materials:

Tools:

  • Hot melt glue gun
  • Common tools like Saw, Screwdriver, Drill

How to hack the JANSJÖ LED table lamp to an LED spotlight

Part 1 : Dismantle

Dismantle the mains connection unit: take the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) out of its housing.

Keep some wire length on the low voltage side. (black wires in my case).

Mains unit housing and the switch are now obsolete

Dismantle the LED light armature.

Remove the ballast weight from the foot.

Part 2: Prepare

Prepare three pieces of wood or likewise isolating material:

– one piece is not too thick for the middle to allow you to screw the flexible arm onto it. Drill holes in this piece upfront. Measure the distance of the two screws of the flexible arm. Add an additional hole for the supply leads to the lamp.

– Two pieces with the thickness of the inside of the foot. Do not drill upfront.

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a LED spotlight

Part 3: Hack!

Solder the lamp low voltage wires to the PCB.

Screw the mains wires of the PCB to the luster terminal.

Optionally connect a 20 mm, 230V VDR (Varistor, See picture) parallel to the mains. This will elongate the life-time of the electronics, especially in countries with overhead mains supply wires.

VDR (Disc-Varistor)

VDR (Disc-Varistor)

Mount the PCB, the luster terminal and the pieces of wood with hot melt.

Make sure the low voltage wires can NEVER come near to the mains wire. I pre-fixed the wires with a pieces of tape, before end-fixing them with hot melt.

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a LED spotlight

Drill holes from the outside part of the armature’s foot, through the pieces of wood with e.g. a 4,5 mm drill (see photo above, I kept the drill bit in, in order to illustrate this). You might want to measure the distances of the bolts in the “central stuffing box” in the ceiling. In my project, I used the largest distance, in order to screw outside the ceiling unit

Central stuffing box

Central stuffing box (Dutch model)

Disconnect the mains voltage. Verify the mains voltage is disconnected at your ceiling unit.

Wear isolating shoes, try not to work with two hands. Have an assistant present to guard you work.

Mains voltage across the human body is instantaneously deadly.

Now the lamp can be connected to the mains wires of the ceiling unit. Optionally with additional pieces of wire (see the white wire in the picture).

Screw the JANSJÖ LED spotlight to your ceiling.

The bottom plate is not needed for ceiling mounting. This version is however NOT suitable for wet rooms or outside or room with temperature changes. Any condensation water inside the unit would be a hazard for fire or electrocution.

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a LED spotlight

Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a LED spotlight

~ by Hans Driessen

 

The post Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a ceiling LED spotlight appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Hackers Help: How to attach headboard to ESPEVÄR mattress base?

I’m trying to figure out if a headboard can be attached to an Espevar Mattress Base , and how to accomplish that. I’m looking at a standard metal headboard (because I just prefer the look of curved metal to what IKEA offers) and am not interested in a slat base with just a mattress on top, and a wall mounted headboard is not an option due to renting. Thanks for any help! ~ Amy *** Hi Amy I’ve not seen the ESPEVÄR in person but I believe it is possible to attach a headboard to it. From the website, the ESPEVÄR looks like a regular wooden slatted mattress base under a bed base slipover. As to how to attach it, that will depend on the fittings on the metal headboard. So you will just need to get the right hardware to secure the metal headboard to the wooden frame. And make some small openings on the slipcover to let the fixtures to go through. Jules Photo: IKEA.com Try these free-standing headboards for size A lime green and white headboard that takes centerstage in the r...

Kitchen renovation reveal: Rhombus wall steals the show

It’s been a while since I did a home tour. If you’ve missed the previous reveals, you can catch up with my Master Bathroom remodel and Guest Bathroom reveal . Today, let’s focus on my kitchen renovation. Hands down, this is the most used room in my home. I spend crazy amounts of time in here, even when I’m not cooking. Just off to the side of the kitchen I converted an awkward space into a reading nook . In the mornings, I sit and read or pray and meditate, before it gets too warm. And on the other side, there’s a work-in-progress plant wall / indoor garden which also takes up a lot of my time. So, all in all, lots of traffic in here, and that’s not even counting cooking and eating time. The kitchen is definitely my favourite room, because the transformation is huge and I love how it turned out. Kitchen renovation: The before House 17 when I first got it, actually had 2 kitchens, which is a very common “Asian” home concept. First, the “dry kitchen”, which is where you make simp...

IKEA sofa with genius armrest storage

Bet you never knew your sofa armrests were prime storage space. Ok, so the guys at IKEA are the masters of hidden / secret storage everywhere. In fact, one of the things I most loved about the  ESKILSTUNA sofa series was the undercover storage on the chaise lounge, but… what? More than 80 liters of storage space wasted on the armrests? NO WAY! I really don’t understand how they didn’t take that opportunity with several different armrest modules. Mobile chargers, cup / can holders, foldable tables, refrigerators… there’s SO MUCH space in there. I can’t stop thinking on different options! For myself, I went for two designs. First, a “full space” design on the (right) side of the chaise lounge. (The cavity fits two foldable chairs). Second, on the left armrest — a flip open section for “mobile charger / remote control storage / etc.”. Below that, a full-depth pull-out drawer, tall enough to store A4 sized magazines. This is the final result: Full space design, rig...