Skip to main content

How to hack a renter-friendly room divider

It took me almost a year to figure it out. I sent a help request in 2019 but here is my attempt at a renter-friendly room divider. 

You can get this up by only drilling 4 holes, 2 in the wall and 2 on the ceiling easy to fill up with putty when you are ready to move out.

Here’s how it looks finished.

renter friendly room divider

Disclaimer: I am an adult person, living on my own. I don’t have children in my space ever, also I don’t live in a place prone to earthquakes. So although this is sturdy and remains up with this minimal fastening, you might need something more sturdy depending on your circumstances. 

Materials:
  • 1 IKEA ELVARLI anchor post
  • 5 IKEA IVAR side pieces (this depends on how long and tall you want your divider to be. Mine are 50cm x 226cm) giving me a 250cm long x 226cm tall divider
  • 2 sets of hook and eye screws
  • 1m long heavy-duty Velcro tape 
  • 12 wood screw (7cm long) I wanted something long enough to go through the wood of the ivar put side by side, but not too long it will perforate all the way through.
Optional:

Renter-friendly room divider IKEA hack 

Prep:

1. The IVAR is untreated wood, so I decided to stain them using a dark wood stain (orange-brown) found at my local hardware store.

Let it dry several hours before going to the next step. 

2. This divider is separating my bedroom area from my living room. I wanted something that has a visual interest without being overpowering. So, I chose a textured wallpaper in cream and white tones.

wall paper

I measured each panel, cut it to size and fixed it to the stained IVAR piece using double-sided tape. (As this isn’t permanent I can change the wallpaper if I get bored of it and can use the IVAR piece as a shelving unit later on if I want to.) The staining and wallpapering are easier to do with the piece lying flat and before fastening them together. 

How this comes together:

1. Choose the spot in your room where you want your divider to be. You need a wall as one of your anchor points to install the hook part of the hook and eye screws. (My advice is to measure twice, drill once.)

I put them about 100cm apart using the IVAR 2nd and 4th horizontal drafters as reference.

You can install the eye part to the first IVAR piece and hook it in place.(Congrats, your first panel is up). 

hooking up the first panel

2. Our other anchor point will be the ELVARLI post. This is the perfect moment to put it up. Measure how wide you want your divider to be and install it on your ceilings, using the appropriate fastening. The ELVARLI is telescopic it can go up from 180cm to 350cm high, so it can accommodate different ceilings heights

3. Next IVAR piece up, the ELVARLI has a base about 1cm tall, that will interfere with the IVAR legs. Cut out 1cm of the IVAR leg closer to the ELVARLI post, to ensure that the two can fit together.

aligning posts

I am not comfortable drilling into metal (didn’t want to compromise the integrity of the post either) so I used heavy duty Velcro tape to fasten this IVAR piece to the ELVARLI. I cut the 1m Velcro tape to 4 pieces of 25cm in length and taped them to the IVAR piece equidistant from one another. Then, lined up the ELVARLI and IVAR together and stuck them together. 

4. Line up and drill your remaining IVAR pieces together until you have all of them standing up. I alternated the screws, with 1 and 3 coming from the left and 2 and 4 coming from the right. Just to make sure the fastening is stable.

renter friendly room divider
renter friendly room divider

5. I used a previous divider anchor points to the ceiling to add rope, as an extra measure, but this is purely decorative, the rope isn’t pulling any weight and the divider stand up without them for a week, so I am confident you don’t need this. 

renter friendly room divider

This is definitely a two-person, sometimes even 3 people project. Overall it took us a full day to complete, including the wallpapering, staining and putting down the previous iteration of the divider.

With all set in stone, I spent ca 200 EUR on the whole thing… I think it is worth it, it has made a huge impact on the space.

Happy hacking!

~ by Iweryd

The post How to hack a renter-friendly room divider appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

SKÅDIS: 5 ways to make the IKEA pegboard even better

IKEA introduced its own pegboard system, SKÅDIS, two years ago and I’d say it’s one of the best systems IKEA launched in recent years. I love how super customisable it is, with a growing range of accessories that help keep things organized. It works everywhere, in your wardrobe to bathroom . Probably anywhere you have a flat surface to hang it up. Photo: IKEA.com SKÅDIS pegboard system See it on IKEA.com But no matter how perfect a system, you can trust IKEA hackers to improve on the SKÅDIS. And they’ve settle these 5 issues you may have faced with the handy IKEA pegboard. Read on for their fixes. 5 IKEA SKÅDIS issues and fixes #1 Expensive hooks? You’ll need quite a number of hooks and accessories to fill up the SKÅDIS pegboard, and Kenyer was shocked at how quickly they all added up. So he figured he could make his own hooks to save cost. Photo: Kenyer Over at Instructables , he shows us how to twist copper wires into the SKÅDIS hook shape. It works s...

Hackers Help: How to remake cam lock holes?

I want to put a 78.5” wide PAX configuration in a 77” space for a kids room . My plan is to eliminate the drawer on the right unit, then cut the shelves and rails to be 1.5” narrower. My question is, how do people attach two laminated pressboard IKEA pieces after they’ve cut off the cam lock holes? Related: See more Hackers Help questions and answers . Are they using drills bits and/or tiny hole saws to remake the cam lock holes? Or screws drilled in from the outside with wood glue? The outside pieces won’t be visible in my completed setup so I could go either way. I’m curious what other people are doing, either I haven’t seen this detail in past hacks or I haven’t been paying attention. ~ by Jenny *** Hi Jenny The best and tidiest method is to use the cut-off portion as a template to reproduce the same cam lock holes in the correct positions. The right sized drill bits and a  Forstner bit should do the trick. A Forstner bit will drill a flat-bottomed hole (...

A beautiful design idea for the IVAR cabinet with doors

A wall of IVAR cabinets with doors engraved is astonishingly captivating. Because IVAR is real solid wood (unlike a lot of flat-pack cupboards), it makes a great blank canvas for CNC machining work and engraving. IKEA items used: IKEA IVAR cabinets in 30mm (12″) and 50mm (20″) depths. IVAR cabinet | IKEA.com Other materials and tools: CNC Router How to engrave the IVAR cabinet with doors: Build a wall of IVAR cabinets to your preference. It’s not too difficult to shorten some in order to fill a wall exactly. I shortened the top row to 695mm and reduced the depth of the middle column to 40mm to create a 50/40/30 sequence so that I didn’t block the window but maximised storage capacity. Take a drawing, trace it in Inkscape or Adobe Illustrator into a black-only flat design. You can simplify the path at this point to reduce the time needed to engrave. Chop up the drawing in Inkscape or Adobe Illustrator into door-sized sections. Save as an SVG. Import the ...